Care and Information

This section of our site represents a personal view. The following recommendations are based on what works for my Husband and I. We would encourage you to get different opinions from various sources, here’s one we recommend: “General Care and Maintenance of Bearded Dragons” written by Robert Mailloux & Philippe De Vosjoli


Bearded Dragons are Omnivorous. They eat both plant and animal matter. At Allaboutbeardeds we feed our adult breeder dragons a combination of mixed greens, (Kale,Mustard,Turnip,Collard) avoid lettuce and romaine as they are too high in moisture and too low in fiber and calcium and cause diarrhea. Superworms (zoophobas) and medium crickets are offered daily for 30 min periods. Make sure that all the Dragons eat, if keeping more than one per enclosure, as dominant Dragons will dominate feeding. Baby dragons should be fed 1/8 inch crickets and finely chopped greens for about one week to ten days. After such a period, the food can be increased in size marginally with the increase in the Dragons body size. As with everything else, always use common sense and discretion when feeding you’re dragon. Never be too confident to ask or read a book if questions arise. Bearded dragons can grow at phenomenal rates when cared for properly, and can reach adulthood within one year.


Baby Bearded dragons do best alone. They can be kept in small groups if the enclosure is large enough, there is numerous feedings, and close attention to each Dragons welfare. Adult Dragons can be kept in small breeding groups consisting of one to two females per male per enclosure. Two males can never be kept together, and two females can be bad news if one is very dominant over the other. As a rule, if keeping Dragons as pets, it is best to house them individually. The size of the enclosure is always relative to the size and number of Dragons in question. One baby Dragon requires at least 12″ by 24″ of ground space with a basking perch and a cool zone. Adult Dragons should be kept in cages no smaller than 36″ by 24″ ground space, with some height, at least 20″, to allow for basking perches. Glass tanks are suitable, but a custom cage with 3 solid sides is optimal, especially for adult breeders. Always take into account both the safety and comfort of you’re Dragon as well as the ease of use, when designing a cage. Remember that Bearded Dragons require daily attention, and a complicated enclosure will complicate care.


Lighting serves two major functions in a Bearded Dragons Life. The first is as a Mood Enhancer and Metabolic stimulator. Simply put, the brightness and duration of said brightness directly affects the lizards ability to metabolize vitamin D3 in their diets which results in weak bone formation and a multitude of other symptoms, and eventually death. The second function is heat. Bearded Dragons need heat to digest their food. They are Cold blooded, and this means that without an outside heat source, their bodies don’t heat up, and no heat means no movement. Simply put, they need about 100 to 105 degrees for 4 to 5 hours a day at least to metabolize food normally. At ALLABOUTBEARDEDS we use both fluorescent and incandescent lighting, in combination, to achieve as natural a lighting condition as possible. Always remember safety and care when using electricity. A change in temperature within the enclosure is also highly recommended. Try to make one end the hot end and one the cool or ambient end. This gives the Dragon the choice and ability to normalize its core body temperature. Never go to an extreme with anything. Always use discretion when designing you’re Dragons enclosure. Always remember to account for hot bulbs and fire safety.